GUIDES · 17/06/2024

Aliée smells like Istanbul

While developing the signature fragrance of Aliée, Oscar Quagliarini revisited his extensive travels around the world, orchestrating fresh and exotic smells in a creative way to tell the true story of the place.
When and how did you discover your talent as a "nose"?

It all started approximately 30 years ago when I realized the intrinsic connection between liquor and scent, which sparked the idea of turning this dream into a reality. The discovery that scent has the power to evoke emotions and awaken profound feelings in individuals has transformed into an incredible journey, both professionally and personally. Throughout this time, delving into the psychology behind each perfume and harmonizing it with the emotions it evokes through drinks has allowed me to engage with all the senses in a meaningful way.

How was your experience of creating exclusive fragrances for big fashion houses like Hermes and Dior?

Collaborating with esteemed fashion houses has been a rewarding experience. Evoking emotions in people who experience the result is nothing short of narrating the story of the perfume. Also, turning the signature scents of the big fashion houses into liquor helped me to deeply understand the flavors of the world’s most commercially successful fragrances. I guess it wouldn't be right to call it a job, it's an adventure!

How does your creative process begin when developing a new perfume?

My creative process starts with the senses, as it does for most people. Music plays a crucial role at the outset. Being my first love, I choose a piece of music that resonates with the desired fragrance. This musical inspiration helps me envision the final outcome. Selecting raw materials and blending them harmoniously, akin to an orchestra, follows this initial step.

Do you have certain rituals, talismans, etc?

No, I don't have any specific rituals or talismans. However, I always have a phrenology head by my side.

What natural elements, flowers or spices do you like using for your creations?

I have a penchant for exploring a wide range of ingredients. During my extensive travels, I always made it a point to visit local markets to discover and experience the aromas of spices and flowers. This is why I particularly love Asian ingredients like yuzu, which provides a unique twist on the classic bergamot. I am also captivated by various types of incense that transport me back to my adventures in India. Additionally, I find the resinoids from Peru, Tolú (Colombia), and other regions fascinating. The scent of roses never fails to amaze me. Moreover, I appreciate the innovative wave of synthetic ingredients that allows me to incorporate my current geographical position into my creations.

What’s the difference between designing perfumes for human bodies and for physical spaces?

When crafting body perfumes, I begin with an idea or concept that I aim to convey. However, for ambient fragrances, such as those used in hotels, my approach differs. I study the specific location extensively, including its flora and cuisine. I then consider the project and spaces within the hotel, paying close attention to the desired sensations to be experienced in each area. This could involve evoking a sense of cleanliness, refreshment, warmth, woodiness, saltiness, or a breezy atmosphere, among others. I take great pleasure in offering hotel guests the flavors of the region and immersing them in the city, climate, and surroundings through their senses.

You are also known to be one of the best bartenders in Europe. How does that contribute to your work as a perfume creator?

My belief in stimulating all the senses simultaneously allows me to offer a truly exceptional experience. I go beyond simply creating fragrances and beverages; I aim to make them more than what they appear. This philosophy extends to my creations in cocktails, gin, liqueurs, bitters, and perfumes. I adhere to the principle of "less is more," and the significant difference lies in my approach to fragrance creation. I seek to craft scents that evoke new flavors, deviating from the conventional olfactory pyramid and offering an innovative and unique olfactory experience.

Now, you are creating an olfactory universe for Aliée in Istanbul. What will it be like? What kind of experiential journey are you designing for travelers and city dwellers here?

When developing the fragrance for Aliée, I respected the natural suggestions provided, while also incorporating ingredients from other places to enhance the sense of expansive hospitality. To create a comfortable and warm atmosphere without overwhelming the spacious environment, I carefully balanced warm notes. I also introduced fresh notes to infuse a touch of vitality, complementing the overall ambiance. The unique location of Aliée captivated me and inspired my creative process, allowing me to immerse myself in its natural vegetation and surroundings.

What notes characterize the fragrance of İstanbul for you?

For this fragrance, I have chosen to incorporate fresh notes such as citrus, which will transition into a green hue through the inclusion of cedar leaves and davana. Before the perfume develops its warm character, I decided to introduce spicy notes primarily provided by coriander and nutmeg, with a subtle hint of cloves. Finally, as we reach the final stages, I carefully selected end notes to add warmth to the bouquet of "Aliée." These notes are derived from benzoin, cedarwood, sandalwood, and patchouli flowers.

You have traveled extensively for work and pleasure. Where do you feel yourself at your natural place on earth?

Yes, I have traveled extensively and had the opportunity to cross paths with Turkey along the way. I have visited various places such as Siberia, Madagascar, Benin, Mexico, Thailand, India, Morocco, and many more. The destinations I tend to gravitate toward are those infused with a strong sense of spirituality. Among the various places I have visited, Africa is where I feel most at ease. My best life experience was in Benin, where I developed a deep affection for the African people. Their genuine willingness to assist one another is truly remarkable. A similar sentiment arose during my time in Thailand, although in a different manner. In Africa, I encountered individuals who genuinely support each other, and their incredible work ethic is evident.